This information covers the perfect watches launched at SIHH 2019. You’ll be able to learn our different SIHH 2019 protection right here, or skip proper to the perfect watches under.
The hotter climate of this yr’s Salon Worldwide de la Haute Horlogerie paired properly with the daring, vibrant colorways that emerged as one among present’s largest developments. However there was a lot extra to think about in 2019, from The Unimaginable Shrinking Case Measurement to a give attention to army heritage (sure, once more) to a number of engineering feats of preposterous complication that choosing our 12 Better of this yr’s SIHH was a feat of its personal.
As standard, our protection focuses on premium watches and fantastic watchmaking know-how that’s outdoors the finances for many — however each mannequin right here represents some new bar in engineering or supplies innovation, the stuff that finds its method into extra reasonably priced items down the road. We’ve additionally chosen watches we might spend our personal hard-earned cash on: fashions with strong engineering, enduring design, and unquestionable worth at an inexpensive (if premium) worth.
Subsequent yr, issues will probably be much more difficult, as SIHH comes along with the world’s different most influential luxurious watch present, Baselworld, as a type of Tremendous Bowl of watches — a fortnight of continuous, back-to-back horology protection spanning late April to early Might. Till then, we convey you the 12 Greatest Watches of SIHH 2019, probably the most vital new releases as determined by every week’s value of dialogue, debate, and hands-on analysis right here in Geneva.
See you at Baselworld, watch nerds.
A Word On Affordability: Whereas the time period “reasonably priced” varies extensively, it’s necessary to think about context. Watches at SIHH typically exceed 5 and even six-figure worth factors. We think about each the general worth and a “typical” worth for a specific maison (model) once we think about what’s reasonably priced. It’s not an ideal science, however we really feel this technique greatest caters to you, the Gear Patrol reader, and your pursuits.
Further contribution by Eric Yang.
- 1 The Greatest Watches of SIHH 2019
- 1.1 Greatest New Watch: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
- 1.2 Greatest Reasonably priced Watch: IWC Automated Spitfire
- 1.3 Greatest Ultrathin Watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Grasp Extremely Skinny Moon Enamel
- 1.4 Greatest Tackle a Basic Design: Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar Faculty Piece
- 1.5 Greatest Sports activities Watch: Panerai Submersible 42mm
- 1.6 Greatest Progressive Watch Design: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date
- 1.7 Greatest Classic-Impressed Watch: Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph
- 1.8 Greatest Reasonably priced Difficult Watch: Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar
- 1.9 Greatest Software Watch: IWC Timezoner “The Longest Flight”
- 1.10 Greatest General Design: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetual Retrograde
- 1.11 Greatest Excessive Complication Watch: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin-Beat
- 1.12 Greatest Ahead-Considering Watch Design: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contepmorain
The Greatest Watches of SIHH 2019
Greatest New Watch: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Perpetual Calendar
Why It Issues: Audemars Piguet’s new Code 11.59 line has been nothing to date if not polarizing, however there does appear to be some consensus that the perpetual calendar is especially putting, and fairly rattling engaging. With its unimaginable Aventurine dial and hexagonal case structure, it’s clear that A.P. was trying to create one thing distinct from all its different fashions, and on this, it’s definitely succeeded.
Who It’s For: Properly, we’ll inform you who this perpetual calendar just isn’t for, and that’s the informal watch purchaser. With a price ticket of $74,500, this mannequin (and certainly, each mannequin within the Code 11.59 assortment) is geared towards the intense watch purchaser, or the seasoned A.P. collector.
Perception: Whereas sure different items within the Code 11.59 assortment have been accused of bearing a resemblance to cheap trend watches (an fascinating argument provided that many of those trend watches have their aesthetic foundation in previous mechanical watches, however a reliable argument nonetheless), the perpetual calendar’s starry dial is so rattling cool that it appears to face by itself. With a brand new in-house motion and a brand new case design, the perpetual is pure A.P. when it comes to each match and end, and when it comes to forward-thinking design.
Key Specs: $74,500; 41mm thick; 10.9mm tall
Greatest Reasonably priced Watch: IWC Automated Spitfire
Why It Issues: There have been myriad pilot’s watches within the “Mark” collection based mostly on the long-lasting Mk. XI pilot’s watch issued to RAF pilots, however a lot of the current iterations have used ETA actions. The Spitfire Automated brings the watch development utterly in-house with the addition of the IWC manufacture calibre 32110.
Who It’s For: Anybody who likes the aesthetics of a pilot’s watch however needs the added worth of an in-house motion will recognize the brand new Automated Spitfire. Somebody after his or her first device watch or who would really like a bronze timepiece would even be a very good candidate for this providing.
Perception: A brand new in-house motion and a number of other vintage-inspired dial updates imply that this new IWC is a transparent winner that takes cues from the corporate’s roots. At $four,350 in metal, that is definitely not a cheap watch, however for a terrific timepiece at an ideal measurement with a manufacture motion, you’re getting a reasonably good bang on your buck.
Key Specs: $four,350 (metal); $four,900 (bronze); 39mm large; 10.6-10.8mm tall
Greatest Ultrathin Watch: Jaeger-LeCoultre Grasp Extremely Skinny Moon Enamel
Why It Issues: A moon part, as its easiest, is a complication that exhibits the wearer the part of the moon, and although the engineering that goes into this specific sort of show is certainly spectacular, ultimately many moon part watches start to look the identical. The brand new Extremely Skinny Moon Enamel by JLC employs a wonderful blue hand-guilloché enamel dial that ups the magnificence issue to a brand new degree.
Who It’s For: As this can be a white gold, restricted version (100 pcs.) with a shocking dial that’s extremely troublesome to engineer, that is one other piece that appears good for the seasoned JLC collector. Nevertheless, anybody who appreciates a wonderful watch or want to add a moon part to his or her assortment might take pleasure in this watch simply as properly.
Perception: Moon phases are fascinating, semi-antiquarian relics of a bygone era of watchmaking which have managed to persist into the fashionable period. Marrying this romantic complication with a textured enamel dial in a wonderfully sized gold case is a recipe for a phenomenal watch Whereas there might very nicely be somebody on the market who doesn’t look after this piece, we haven’t met him but.
Key Specs: $35,800; 39mm extensive; 10.04mm tall
Greatest Tackle a Basic Design: Laurent Ferrier Galet Annual Calendar Faculty Piece
Why It Issues: Whereas it’d appear to be a no brainer for the previous technical director of Patek Philippe to make an annual calendar watch, this one is so meticulously nicely made that we will’t cease fascinated by it. Laurent Ferrier has produced variations of this timepiece up to now (the unique gained the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève for males’s difficult watch in 2018), however this one has been up to date with a brand new motion and a shocking deep blue dial and strap.
Who It’s For: This can be a watch that’s undoubtedly for the type of one that already is aware of who Laurent Ferrier is — and who has perhaps even collected his work because the early days of his eponymous model. Individuals who respect that the watch business, broadly talking, strikes in inches and never miles, will recognize the restraint and refinement on show on this piece.
Perception: Laurent Ferrier is an insanely gifted watchmaker — one who’s not getting the popularity he deserves from the higher watch-buying public. That in all probability gained’t change until he begins making greater than round 100 watches a yr, nevertheless it undoubtedly doesn’t want to vary for him to stay among the best watchmakers working at present. This timepiece reminded us that iterative watch designs aren’t a nasty factor on a regular basis. Typically, they’re simply one other step ahead on the lengthy and regular march towards perfection.
Key Specs: ~$50,246 (metal); ~$55,273 (pink gold); 40mm vast; 12.8mm tall
Greatest Sports activities Watch: Panerai Submersible 42mm
Why It Issues: One of many first new fashions from the brand new Submersible line, this 42mm diver retains most of the Luminor logos whereas branching out by itself. The smaller case measurement permits non-Stallone measurement people to benefit from the Panerai aesthetic with out springing for a watch that appears foolish on them, and the out there gray dial-variant with blue bezel seems notably badass and totally different.
Who It’s For: Somebody who would really like a smaller Panerai, actually. Although there are 38mm Luminor Due fashions obtainable, and there are actually 42mm Due fashions out there, as nicely, the Submersible 42mm presents an extra choice, which is a superb factor, in our guide. Should you’re into design of the Luminor collection however need one thing sportier, this might be the look ahead to you.
Perception: Breaking the Submersible out into its personal product line is an fascinating play, and appears indicative of the success of earlier Luminor Submersible fashions. Although the aesthetics will not be for everybody, Panerai is in its unique essence a device watch producer, and it’s nice to see the corporate specializing in these kinds of watches, that are meant particularly and clearly for the water.
Key Specs: $9,500; 42mm thick; 300m water resistant
Greatest Progressive Watch Design: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date
Why It Issues: Lange’s Zeitwerk Date proves that the German model is eager redefining the watchmaking panorama with every successive launch. It upgraded the Zeitwerk, a “digital” watch (which means right here that it makes use of numerals as an alternative of arms to point the time) with a date perform. And it’s a ravishing date perform. Numbers on a hoop across the perimeter of the dial change from white to pink to point what day of the month it’s.
Who It’s For: At virtually $97,000, you’ve received to have some critical money to personal a timepiece like this. However you additionally should have critical type and a love of barely non-traditional timepieces. This one places all of Germany’s most prized watchmaking virtues on show: originality, magnificence, technical craftsmanship — the record goes on. It’s additionally lovely to take a look at. The graceful, virtually instantaneous change of the hour, minute and date is so fantastic to behold that we’re afraid we’d spend all day simply watching the time go by.
Perception: Most of Lange’s different releases have been iterations on their classics: sensible updates to paint, and fabrication, largely. However this one is technically model new, and the factor that makes it new provides to the watch’s usefulness. It’s an excellent marriage of type and performance, and it makes us much more excited to see with Lange has in retailer for 2020.
Key Specs: $96,700; 44.2mm vast; 12.3mm tall
Greatest Classic-Impressed Watch: Montblanc Heritage Pulsograph
Why It Issues: Montblanc is excessive on the record of manufacturers that dig means, method deep into their archives for inspiration (technically Minerva’s archives, however similar diff), although whereas the Heritage Pulsograph is predicated on designs from the 1940s, it seems as recent and modern as, properly, something. That’s as a result of its designers blended all the fitting particulars from the previous (pin dot indices, pinkish dial, blued arms) and blended them with trendy comforts (upgraded motion, 40mm case). The result’s an on the spot heirloom.
Who It’s For: We’re positive that in some darkish corners of the Web, there’s multiple Neanderthal scratching his head in shock and marvel that a well-known and revered manufacture would launch a pink males’s watch. However we additionally occur to like the design and located the colour lovely — it’s one of many few watches Gear Patrol’s watch workforce unanimously agreed upon being a stunning watch.
Perception: Montblanc and Minerva have a collective deep, wealthy historical past to attract upon, and we’re glad to see that whereas the model is impressed by the previous, it’s not beholden to it. We’ve seen different watch manufacturers take their archives too critically — and others appear to desert them altogether within the pursuit of one thing model new. The brand new Heritage assortment, and the Pulsograph particularly, ought to function a lesson to each different main watch model within the area.
Key Specs: ~$32,006; 40mm vast
Greatest Reasonably priced Difficult Watch: Baume & Mercier Clifton Baumatic Perpetual Calendar
Why It Issues: Baume & Mercier has historically provided the watch-buying public vital worth buys within the type of watches with superior tech that don’t value an arm and a leg, such because the Clifton Membership COSC. Right here, the corporate is taking the other tact, introducing a sophisticated watch that, whereas definitely not cheap, might function the introduction to difficult watchmaking for somebody who doesn’t have six figures to spend on a timepiece from the Huge Three.
Who It’s For: In the event you’re in search of your first perpetual calendar however aren’t ready to spend mortgage-level cash on one, this strong gold providing from Baume & Mercier might be a great candidate. Whereas it’s uncertain that a seasoned collector with the monetary means would spring for this watch over, say, an A.P. or a Patek with an in-house calibre, that doesn’t detract from the truth that this can be a good-looking watch with a clear, legible dial.
Perception: With a silicon hairspring and 5-day energy reserve, the BM13-1975AC-1 motion from the Baumatic line shaped the right foundation upon which so as to add a calendar mannequin and construct the Perpetual Calendar. Although not as svelte as some perpetuals on the market at 42mm by 12.1, that is nonetheless a step in a brand new course for Baume & Mercier, and a step the corporate has confirmed itself greater than able to taking.
Key Specs: $24,500; 42mm large; 12.1mm tall
Greatest Software Watch: IWC Timezoner “The Longest Flight”
Why It Issues: Although the journey watch is nothing new, IWC’s Timezoner “The Longest Flight” exhibits that there are nonetheless novel methods to show a dual-time complication (the system used right here has in truth been utilized earlier than, however paired with a chronograph). Turning the bezel permits the consumer to leap the hour hand and thus shortly show a second time zone while maintaining a reference time within the 24-hour window — an ideal complication for the jet-setter.
Who It’s For: Anybody who travels typically and needs to simply maintain monitor of a second time zone will discover the Timezoner “The Longest Flight” helpful, although at 46mm broad, that individual higher have a big wrist. Somebody who needs two time zones however doesn’t just like the “GMT Grasp” technique of utilizing a fourth hand on the dial may discover this technique preferable.
Perception: This can be a critical, purpose-built device watch, and although we’d definitely wish to see one executed in a smaller case measurement (like, 6mm smaller), this is among the few new novelties at SIHH that has really felt totally different. A standout from the Pilot’s Watch assortment (and extra particularly, from the Spitfire Assortment), the Timezoner might be indicative of a brand new path for sophisticated IWC device watches.
Key Specs: $12,400; 46mm vast; 15.2mm tall
Greatest General Design: Parmigiani Fleurier Toric Quantieme Perpetual Retrograde
Why It Issues: Michael Parmigiani has been working the watch business since 1976, nevertheless it wasn’t till the launch of his eponymous model based mostly in Fleurier, Switzerland that the world acquired to witness the extent of his expertise. The Toric Quantieme Perpetual Retrograde combines a number of difficult-to-produce problems into a shocking, cohesive entire that doesn’t really feel contrived.
Who It’s For: At almost $70,000, this can be a critical watch lover’s watch — certainly, until one is a seasoned collector (or a daily Gear Patrol reader), one might not perceive what half the stuff on this dial even does. That being stated, in case you do know what’s happening right here, then you recognize that this is likely one of the most lovely difficult watches to see the sunshine of day in a very long time.
Perception: Typically a Parmigiani can put on a bit massive on the wrist, however regardless of the Toric Quantieme Perpetual Retrograde’s bigger 42.5mm case, it manages to retain magnificence in its proportions and wears comfortably. Additionally, professional tip: examine this one out on our Instagram feed — the web site pictures, sadly, don’t do it justice.
Key Specs: ~$69,305; 42.5mm extensive; 12.1mm tall
Greatest Excessive Complication Watch: Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin-Beat
Why It Issues: Set your perpetual calendar watch down for lengthy sufficient with out touching it, and also you’re going to have a hell of numerous shows to readjust once you decide it again up once more to put on it. Trying to clear up this drawback, Vacheron Constantin created, from the bottom up, a totally new motion with two balances, every working at a special frequency. Whenever you change over to the slower frequency, the facility reserve is prolonged to an virtually inconceivable 65 days.
Who It’s For: Paradoxically, whomever needs one — the Twin Beat is just not a restricted version, however a full manufacturing mannequin (cue yet one more “Inconceivable!” from Wallace Shaw’s Vizzini in The Princess Bride). That being stated, we will anticipate very, very low portions of this watch to be produced (maybe only a handful in 2019) given the complexity of the motion and the requisite time wanted to assemble them.
Perception: Not solely is the watchmaking that went into the Traditionelle spectacular, however the merely undeniable fact that Vacheron determined to construct one thing really new, that wasn’t merely iterative, was a breath of recent air at this yr’s SIHH. This sort of look ahead to this type of cash could also be unobtanium for most individuals, nevertheless it’s enjoying on the fringe edges of great watchmaking, and that’s thrilling in and of itself.
Key Specs: $199,000; 42mm; 12.3mm
Greatest Ahead-Considering Watch Design: Greubel Forsey Balancier Contepmorain
Why It Issues: Greubel Forsey is understood for spending a number of time engineering and adorning watches till they appear extra like sculpture than units that inform the time. And that’s why most of them have been fairly sizable — often with case diameters someplace between 43mm and 49mm. For the primary time, they’ve managed to get all of their signature structure into a comparatively small watch. At simply 39.6mm, the Balancier Contemporain is wearable, however nonetheless seems to be like a Greubel Forsey piece.
Who It’s For: We’d be stunned if all 33 watches on this very restricted version haven’t all been earmarked for critical collectors but. Even in case you are an individual with critical means (learn: $210,000), this isn’t a primary watch. It’s sized nicely sufficient for informal put on, so trendy billionaires might undoubtedly carry one off at a employees assembly. Nevertheless it’ll shine brightest at particular occasions the place it could do one of many many issues it’s meant to do: function a dialog starter.
Perception: Watches, broadly talking, are getting smaller. Whereas Greubel Forsey isn’t the type of model that wants to answer tendencies, it’s encouraging to see them making an attempt out a case measurement beneath 40mm. And that’s not simply because it makes the watches extra wearable — it’s as a result of the extent of innovation and ornament that goes into their items is basically, actually onerous to do on a small scale. That is an achievement that can’t be ignored.
Key Specs: $210,000; 39.6mm vast; 12.21mm tall