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The Complete Buying Guide to Omega Watches • Gear Patrol

The Complete Buying Guide to Omega Watches • Gear Patrol

First watch on the Moon. A basic James Bond mannequin. Worn on the wrist of JFK and Mikhail Gorbachev at their respective inaugurations, and on the wrist of Mao Zedong for 31 years. Elvis Presley wore one whereas cruising in his purple Cadillac, and immediately George Clooney wears one whereas cruising on a Vespa. A paradigm-shifting mechanical motion designed by the 20th Century’s biggest watchmaker. The one model to really compete with, and typically dominate, Rolex. A Babe Ruth-style run as some probably the most correct watches on the earth, and the official timekeeper for the Olympic Video games time and again. That is Omega, one of many biggest Swiss watch corporations of all time.

Omega has been round underneath one identify or one other since 1848, however in the present day’s lineup attracts closely on its basic mid-20th-century designs. Although not fairly as sluggish to evolve as Rolex, Omega has incrementally developed its watches such that they really feel concurrently historic (although not anachronistic) and trendy (although not fashionable).

George Daniels was an orphan in London who, through the 1960s and 70s, labored to repair a friction drawback with the usual “lever escapement,” which had regulated mechanical watches for shut to 3 centuries. He fastened the friction drawback, thus providing the primary vital horological contribution in lots of of years, and he named it the co-axial escapement.

Omega purchased the patent in 1999, and has lately constructed new, high-tech amenities to nurture the co-axial escapement — in addition to their Grasp Chronometer program — into the 21st Century. The co-axial mechanism, Omega argues, reduces service intervals (which lowers the worth of possession), and it helps keep accuracy. Once you purchase an Omega with a co-axial motion at present, you’re getting a complicated mechanism and an essential piece of horological historical past.

Although the co-axial escapement constitutes a critical innovation, one “development” Omega has adopted, nevertheless, is as we speak’s obsessive manufacturing of restricted editions. Whereas we will’t chase down all of the LEs for you right here (they’re typically gone inside minutes of launch anyhow), we encourage you to comply with your curiosity about them, ought to you have got any.

As for the core Omega lineup, we have now assembled a fast reference information that’ll show you how to get acquainted with the Omega panorama and level you to particular watches that epitomize the model’s greatest choices. We’ve got elected to not present each single out there mannequin within the curiosity of readability and brevity, however this information ought to function a very good start line.

Shopping for Information

The Speedmasters


Initially designed for motorsports and sometimes cited because the Porsche 911 of watches, the Speedmaster turned The Moonwatch when Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the lunar floor in 1969 sporting his trusted reference ST105.012. As we speak’s Speedmasters are available many sizes and styles, from traditionally correct recreations to strong gold diamond-encrusted shiners, to ultra-light carbon technical wonders. Listed here are 4 Speedmasters value understanding about.

The Speedmaster Moonwatch Skilled Chronograph 42mm

A vital mannequin, this can be a trendy tackle the unique Speedy that adorned Buzz Aldrin’s wrist 50 years in the past when he set foot on the moon. Nonetheless that includes a hand-wound Omega caliber, it doesn’t get rather more iconic or good-looking than this.
Measurement: 42mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Chrome steel (leather-based additionally out there)
Motion: Ref. 1863 mechanical
Worth: $5,350

Speedmaster Skilled Chronograph 39.7mm

Smaller and sporting a strong case again, this mannequin is extra vintage-y than its bigger cousin. This watch is famous as The First Omega in Area, because it’s based mostly on the mannequin that accompanied Wally Shirra when he orbited Earth in 1962.
Measurement: 39.7mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 1863 mechanical
Worth: $5,300

Speedmaster Moonwatch Omega Co-Axial Chronograph 44.25mm “Darkish Aspect of the Moon”

The fashionable appears, bigger measurement, carbon case, and excessive efficiency co-axial motion make this Speedmaster unabashedly of-the-moment. (See additionally the Grey and White Aspect of the Moon.)
Measurement: 44.25mm
Case Materials: Black ceramic
Bracelet: Coated nylon material
Motion: Ref. 9300 co-axial automated chronograph
Worth: $12,000

Speedmaster Skywalker X-33 45mm

A contemporary improve of the X-33 launched within the 1998, the Skywalker X-33 was designed with astronauts in thoughts. To that finish, it contains a quartz-powered ana-digi show with a number of time zones, three alarms, a chronograph, countdown features and extra. It might not seem like a standard Speedmaster, nevertheless it’s a pure evolution of the Area Age unique.
Measurement: 45mm
Case Materials: Titanium
Bracelet: Titanium bracelet
Motion: Ref. 5169 digital chronograph
Worth: $5,900

Notice: We’ve chosen to solely spotlight a few of the seemingly limitless variety of Speedmasters on the market. To see the whole assortment, click on right here.

The Seamasters

This can be a complicated line inside the model as a result of Omega produced what have been primarily splash-proof gown watches underneath this monicker for many years. On the similar time, the Seamaster line has included Omega’s most strong, high-tech dive watches. That confusion isn’t totally gone in the present day from the lineup, however the waterproofness has been upped considerably throughout the road. Listed here are as we speak’s important Seamasters that you simply’ll need to find out about.

Diver 300M Co-Axial 42mm

Made really well-known when Pierce Brosnan’s costume designer determined James Bond ought to put on what the British Royal Navy was sporting through the 1990s, we noticed 007 drop his Rolex Sub in favor of a quartz Seamaster 300. (Daniel Craig strapped on a mechanical 300M extra just lately.) The 300M has maintained its seems to be and specs over a sluggish evolution for a couple of many years, making it one among Omega’s most constant fashions. The threaded helium escape valve at 10-o’clock provides the watch a unusual asymmetry, whereas the wave dial begs to be seen underneath a loupe. There are lots of variants to select from, although we just like the liquidy blue and silver fairly a bit. Additionally obtainable as a chronograph, in valuable metals, and so forth.
Measurement: 42mm
Case Materials: Metal
Bracelet: Rubber
Motion: Ref. 8800 co-axial automated with date
Worth: $four,900

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Diver 43.5mm

Bigger than the 300M, twice as water-resistance, and provided in a bevy of variations that embrace carbon instances, a GMT motion, a chronograph, and extra, the Planet Ocean is Omega’s most superior dive watch assortment. Orange has been a well-liked colour, however given the multiplicity of choices, there are few seems you’ll be able to’t discover inside the Planet Ocean lineup.
Measurement: 43.5mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Nylon NATO
Motion: Ref. 8900 co-axial automated with date
Worth: $6,200

Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M Diver Chronograph in Strong Purple Gold 45.5mm

To get a way of how far Omega will take a few of its Planet Ocean fashions, take a look at this large strong gold chronograph. Omega’s proprietary gold is known as Ceragold, and the pink hue is surprisingly delicate in individual.
Measurement: 45.5mm
Case Materials: Ceragold (pink gold)
Bracelet: Rubber-backed Alligator
Motion: Ref. 9301 co-axial automated chronograph with date
Worth: $33,000.00

Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial 38mm/41.5mm

The Aqua Terra lineup speaks to that aforementioned confusion between gown watch and sport watch that’s inherent to classic Seamasters, however this duality can also be the power of the fashionable Aqua Terra. Sporty and rugged, for positive, however elegant and professional sufficient to pair nicely with a enterprise go well with on the every day. This could possibly be your solely watch.
Measurement: 38mm or 41.5mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Chrome steel bracelet
Motion: Ref. 8800 (38mm) or 8300 (41.5mm) co-axial automated with date
Worth: $5,700 (38mm); $6,000 (41.5mm)

Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial GMT 43mm

Including a 24-hour GMT hand with leaping hours for fast setting of native time, this Aqua Terra turns into a world traveler’s companion able to cowl any event, from enterprise to excessive journey. A chronograph mannequin can also be out there.
Measurement: 43mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Chrome steel bracelet
Motion: Ref. 8605 co-axial automated GMT with date
Worth: $10,800

Aqua Terra 150M Co-Axial Worldtimer 43mm

With a multi-city worldtimer perform and delightful globe within the central sub-dial, this Aqua Terra approaches haut horological heights whereas remaining, primarily, a badass software watch. (There’s that duality once more.) Additionally obtainable in two-tone and in strong gold.
Measurement: 43mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8939 co-axial automated GMT Worldtimer with date
Worth: $48,600

Seamaster 300 Co-Axial 39mm

To not be confused with the Diver 300M, the 300 vary is Omega’s classic playground. These aren’t precisely strict reissues because of the trendy co-axial actions, however their styling harkens again to the early divers from Omega. In 2017, Omega, to a lot acclaim, launched the 1957 Trilogy, which included the Seamaster 300 (featured individually right here), the Railmaster, and an original-looking Speedmaster. The success of that Trilogy has seen Omega releasing these fashions individually ever since, they usually’re typically exhausting to return by as a consequence of their reputation.
Measurement: 39mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8806 time-only co-axial automated
Worth: $7,000

Seamaster 300 Co-Axial in Yellow Gold 41mm

Riffing on the classic styling of the smaller 300 above, this 41mm strong gold magnificence with inexperienced dial and strap is able to hit the Emerald Metropolis and pull again the proverbial curtain. Simply Omega’s most hanging vintage-inspired mannequin. Additionally obtainable in metal.
Measurement: 41mm
Case Materials: Yellow gold
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8913 time-only co-axial automated
Worth: $26,500

Seamaster 1948 Co-Axial Small Seconds 38mm (Restricted Version)

With platinum just about quadrupling the worth, this watch shouldn’t be for the faint of pockets. Basic 1940s Seamaster styling places this one squarely within the gown watch period of the Seamaster. (Additionally out there with a center-mounted sweep seconds hand.)
Measurement: 38mm
Case Materials: Platinum
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8805 co-axial automated with small seconds
Worth: $42,700

Seamaster Bullhead Co-Axial Chronograph 43mm (Restricted Version of 669 items)

What is that this factor? Nicely, it’s a tribute to the unique Bullhead Chronograph, which was a sometimes weird-looking 1970s design. Like it or hate it, it took the Seamaster in a brand new path, and offers an alternative choice to the usual round-cased watches.
Measurement: 43mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 3113 co-axial chronograph
Worth: $9,600

Ploprof 1200m Co-Axial 55mm

It by no means ceases to amaze us watch followers that the Ploprof continues to be in manufacturing. It’s large at 55mm, extremely cumbersome, and, if nothing else, a stellar instance of how a lot much less gadgetry is required to perform super-deep waterproofness immediately. For some, nevertheless, this can-opener-esque behemoth is pure magnificence. Go nuts and go for one of many two-tone variations.
Measurement: 55mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Chrome steel mesh
Motion: Ref. 8500 co-axial with date
Worth: $9,700

Observe: We’ve chosen to solely spotlight a number of the Seamaster line. To see all the assortment, click on right here.

The Constellations

That is the place Omega slots within the majority of its dressier watches in the present day, most with a classic reference to the 1940s and 50s fashions, just like the so-called “pie-pan” that sported an apparently ruffled dial edge again within the day. You can too discover ladies’s diamond-encrusted fashions among the many Constellations. We’ve chosen a couple of important fashions under.

Constellation Globemaster Co-Axial 39mm

Basic 50s styling in a extra trendy gown watch measurement, the Globemaster is decidedly not a sport watch; it’s a bare-bones gown watch that’ll pair completely together with your hand-stitched brogues. Obtainable in metal, strong gold, and two-tone (featured right here).
Measurement: 39mm
Case Materials: Metal and gold
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8900 co-axial with date
Worth: $eight,600

Globemaster Co-Axial Annual Calendar 41mm

Getting an in-house annual calendar motion in a look ahead to beneath $10okay is definitely one thing to take discover of. This watch is for the enterprise traveler trying to make an impression that claims, “I’m conventional, sensible, and it is best to minimize offers with me.” After 5pm, it’s able to clink glasses in celebration of a closed deal.
Measurement: 41mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8922 co-axial annual calendar
Worth: $eight,600

Word: We’ve chosen to solely spotlight a few of the Constellations line. To see the whole assortment, click on right here.

The Devilles

The identify DeVille adorned the dials of many classic Omegas by means of the 50s and 60s, suggesting a decidedly American spirit. (In any case, Omega’s largest shopper base was within the USA throughout this era.) At this time’s DeVilles are the fanciest and most intricate Omegas obtainable, with many fashions going past the gown watch class into haute horlogerie correct. When you’re into classic gown fashion and excessive costs, this choice ought to whet your urge for food.

DeVille Co-Axial Chronograph Strong Gold 42mm

Unmistakably conventional, however loaded with a high-tech co-axial motion that meets Omega’s Grasp Chronometer specs for the utmost in mechanical timekeeping accuracy.
Measurement: 42mm
Case Materials: Purple gold
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 9301 co-axial chronograph with date
Worth: $29,000

DeVille Co-Axial Strong Pink Gold 41mm

Conventional, almost to a fault, this all-gold watch goes to face out on anybody’s wrist in any circumstance in any outfit. In case you like flashing bling, this can be your Omega.
Measurement: 41mm
Case Materials: Purple gold
Bracelet: Purple gold
Motion: Ref. 8501 co-axial automated with date
Worth: $33,200

DeVille Co-Axial Tourbillon 44mm (Restricted Numbered Version)

Relying in your circumstances, strolling right into a room with this watch on goes to both announce your wealth, your incapability to correctly handle your funds, or your potential to steal valuable watches. When the zombie apocalypse comes, you may flip it for entry to a subterranean bunker. The centrally-mounted tourbillon is as distinctive as it’s good-looking.
Measurement: 44mm
Case Materials: Purple gold
Bracelet: Purple gold
Motion: Ref. 8501 co-axial automated with date
Worth: $156,000

DeVille Hour Imaginative and prescient Co-Axial 41mm

The Hour Imaginative and prescient line has a sapphire case-side that affords a uncommon lateral view of the co-axial motion. This window was developed early on in Omega’s co-axial program only for that objective, however stays distinctive inside the line to this present day. Additionally obtainable with an annual calendar co-axial motion.
Measurement: 44mm
Case Materials: Chrome steel
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8501 co-axial automated with date
Worth: $7,700

DeVille Tresor Co-Axial 40mm

The Tresor sub-line gives sleeker instances, valuable metals, diamonds, and usually constitutes watches greatest matched to black tie and night robes. Value a glance should you’re on the lookout for one thing to put on whereas tossing again caviar and Dom Perignon on New Years. This cheery cherry purple mannequin celebrates Omega’s 150th Anniversary.
Measurement: 40mm
Case Materials: Yellow gold
Bracelet: Leather-based
Motion: Ref. 8929 hand-wound co-axial time-only
Worth: $17,800

Notice: We’ve chosen to solely spotlight a few of the DeVille line. To see the whole assortment, click on right here.

Specialties

The Specialities part consists of restricted editions, one-offs and and particular tasks from throughout the totally different strains (together with this Olympic Pocket Watch 1932 for $109,000). When you’re looking for one thing particular that doesn’t exist in a daily manufacturing mannequin, this can be a good place to start out.

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